Book Excerpt : Upper Geyser Basin

Upper Geyser Basin stretches in a right triangle from Old Faithful geyser north and west, mostly along the Firehole River. The hot springs and geysers draw upon the local groundwater for their source of water but also upon deep underground reservoirs. This hydrothermal area contains more than 20 percent of all the geysers in the world, as well as thousands of non-erupting hot springs. T. Scott Bryan, in his book, The Geysers of Yellowstone, writes:

To properly see the Upper Basin one must spend two or three days in order to wait for the large and famous geysers to erupt as well as to experience the smaller features. There are minor details to be observed in the basin, too—the colorations, forest life, thermophilic communities, and so on—many of which are found nowhere else in the world. To spend less time is to cheat oneself.

What exactly is a geyser?

A geyser is a hot spring that throws forth jets of water and steam intermittently. As you wander through the area, try to guess which seemingly placid hot pools or deep holes may be active geysers, even if they don't erupt while you're watching. Here are some telltale signs of active geysers:

• A deep or wide white crater that does not look cracked and dry
• Areas downhill from the crater that are devoid of life due to hot water
• Puddles of water around a crater when it hasn't been raining
• Dead but standing trees nearby, indicating a relatively new geyser
• Concentric rims or formations of the pale brittle rock called geyserite.

The Old Faithful interchange bypasses most of the thermal features. Before it was built, the Grand Loop Road ran past many of them, including Morning Glory Pool and Grotto and Castle geysers. The only current access to these fascinating but sensitive features is by foot or bicycle. Many of the bicyclists you see here are members of an association of geyser enthusiasts (see page 361).

An early morning stroll around Geyser Hill yields this view of Upper Geyser Basin and
Old Faithful Inn.

Vandalism to the geysers and pools has decreased noticeably since the rerouting of traffic, but the road relocation has made it difficult for older or disabled visitors or for those with very little time to view such less-accessible marvels as Grand Geyser and Black Sand Pool. It's some consolation that a wheelchair may be borrowed from the visitor center.

Even the hardy should not be surprised if hills that don't look steep set you to puffing and your heart to beating fast—it's the altitude! A few conveniently located benches are especially welcome on the hilly parts of Geyser Hill.

Tip: Precautions for your geyser walks

CREDITS: The photo of Upper Geyser Basin is by Janet Chapple.

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 This is an excerpt from Yellowstone Treasures, 2nd edition, page 80.

Copyright 2005. All Rights Reserved.